Delight In Dixie: Summer Vacations
June 2024Ember Kicks Off Summer with Hot New Menu
June 2024As anyone who lives here or visits our corner of the state knows, Southwest Louisiana has a reputation for stellar cuisine! Our June Wining and Dining section celebrates this legendary foodie culture by featuring top-notch chefs who create the tantalizing recipes that keep their patrons coming back for more. Read on for a glimpse into the kitchens of some of the best dining establishments in the Lake Area!
Colin Nunez: Villa Harlequin
by Matt Dye
There’s a patience and purpose to Chef Colin Nunez’s movements as he preps for Saturday night’s dinner service at the Villa Harlequin. The head chef since October 2022, Nunez’s path through the culinary world has been anything but ordinary.
“I started at Sam’s Club meat department just to get some kind of experience under my belt,” Nunez says. From there, he went on to take a few culinary courses, but found that the classroom setting wasn’t for him.
Unsure of his next step, a phone call from a friend about an opening at Restaurant Calla illuminated Nunez’s path. “My first chef job, and I was at Calla under David Sorrells, and boy what a start that was. Sorrells worked under Thomas Keller at The French Laundry in California and ran his kitchen as such. So I was thrust into fine dining right out the gate.”
Nunez thrived in this environment, learning on the job under Chef Sorrells. He rose to the level of sous chef, but then COVID-19 struck, and Calla, like many in the restaurant industry, shut down in August of 2020.
From there, Nunez moved over to 1910 before landing a spot as the sous chef at the Villa Harlequin. At the end of 2022, he was named head chef. “I couldn’t ask for better restaurant owners than the Sperandeos, and there’s a real camaraderie amongst us on the line. The hours and grind of it can be challenging, but the people I work with are my favorite thing about the job and make it all worth it.”
Since assuming leadership, Nunez has made changes big and small, both in the way the kitchen is run and the execution of the dishes. “I overhauled most of the menu at lunch and dinner, and it’s nice to have something to put my name on like that.”
As head chef, Nunez has opportunities to attend some of the bigger restaurant-related events rather than being confined to the kitchen. He attended the 2022 Louisiana Seafood Cookoff with Villa Harlequin and was part of the winning team! “It was a big moment to hand a seafood dish to John Folse in New Orleans for him to judge,” Nunez say.
He also attended his first Rouge et Blanc last year where he debuted his Crawfish and Crab Cakes with fried green tomatoes and nduja cream sauce. “It really stuck, so we’re about to feature it on the menu,” he says.
Nunez says his philosophy on menu creation is to give the people what they want. “I don’t much pay attention to food trends. I just try to make what I think is good and hope the folks like it.”
At the end of the day, Nunez comes home and makes himself a simple sandwich. Or if has the energy, “I love to make some fried rice and General Tso’s and put on a kung fu movie.” But his favorite thing is spending time with his daughter, which “there’s never enough of, so I just do the most I can to make the time I have with her as meaningful as possible.” As a father, Nunez is teaching his daughter an important lesson. “No path is the same, but if you work hard, follow your dreams, and treat people right, doors can open.”
Chef Eric Johnson: The Villages of Imperial Pointe
by Tori Hebert
Chef Eric Johnson has always noticed the joy food brings to life. Whether preparing, serving, or eating, food brings people together. He took introductory culinary classes at East Junior High School in Opelousas and at the age of 16 started his first restaurant gig at Ryan’s Family Steak House. Each small step prepared him for Executive Chef positions with both the Villages of Imperial Pointe and the Golden Nugget Casino Resort.
While Johnson may have similar titles at each establishment, each day is brand new. “At the Villages of Imperial Pointe, it’s like cooking for family every day. At the Golden Nugget, each day is new, and the Food & Beverage team is a large operation, but it runs like a well-oiled machine,” he says. “No matter what, the standard is excellence. Whether we are following a proven history of providing the best cuisine in entertainment, or serving picture perfect meals for residents, I challenge myself and my team every day to do better than we did yesterday.”
Johnson says beyond his professional cooking he enjoys seeing new restaurant trends throughout SWLA. He says a current trend is traditional breakfast items, like savory French toast, being reimagined as gourmet dinner dishes.
Johnson has won several awards including taking home a top prize at the Jambalaya Cookoff, BBQ Extravaganza, Dessert King, Lamb Chow-Down Show-Down and most recently the Salvation Army Empty Bowl Fundraiser. Johnson and his team won Best Soup for their Lobster Bisque. “It’s very special to participate in the Empty Bowl Fundraiser each year,” he says. “I enjoy giving back to the community in this way and this year was extra fulfilling as we were able to give each of our residents a handmade bowl and we served them our award-winning bisque!”
Even with his many accolades, Johnson says it is only because of his talented team that he has reached such achievements. “Foremost, I give all glory to God for allowing me to have this journey. I am incredibly thankful for all of my family, friends, chefs, cooks, bartenders, servers and everyone past and present that has helped make my dream of creating edible masterpieces for others to enjoy a reality.”
Chef Patrick Tynan: Lighthouse Bend
by Kerri Cooke
Lighthouse Bend in downtown Cameron has been the talk of SWLA for months. The restaurant, market and marina, built and staffed by Venture Global, is a tourist attraction for a community still recovering from hurricanes past.
Patrick Tynan, executive chef and general manager at Lighthouse Bend says, “I got the job at Lighthouse Bend when a former employer called me and asked if I would be interested in helping him with a new concept in Louisiana for a weekend. Once I got here, I knew I wouldn’t be going anywhere anytime soon. I love that Lighthouse Bend is much more than just another place to enjoy a meal. We want to turn Cameron back into the destination it once was. We are also able to provide a service to a community that has been affected by recent hurricanes.”
Originally from Humble, Texas, Tynan says moving to Louisiana was an adjustment but “learning the cuisine wasn’t too challenging because my grandmother was as Cajun as they come.” Tynan credits his mentor, Chef Matt Baum, with helping him gain the vital experience he needed to thrive. “He worked with me a lot on my management style, costing menus, recipe development and plating.”
Tynan has gained experience by working his way through the hierarchy of the restaurant business. His experience ranges from a stint at KFC to executive sous chef at Houston Country Club—Walden on Lake Houston. “Early in my career my boss told me to soak up as much as I could,” Tynan says. This hunger for honing his craft has led to his promotion within the food industry.
Tynan’s love for food began in his childhood. “When I was growing up food was the centerpiece for every special occasion. We had a close-knit extended family, so I always associated those good times with family, with good food.” When Tynan was in high school, he began building experience in the restaurant industry. “I took a job as a dishwasher at a local deli when I was 16, mainly to pay for gas or to take a girl to the movies. One day a fry cook didn’t show up, so they told me to come help on the line.”
Tynan compares working at a restaurant to coaching a football team. When he started getting his feet wet in the kitchen he explains, “weekdays were slow, so we spent time prepping for the weekend. Then Friday at 5:00 p.m., when you’re getting your mise en place together, it was pre-game. At 7:00 p.m., when the dinner tickets started pouring in, it was game time. It might hurt a little bit, and it’ll be difficult, but the sense of accomplishment at the end of the night was unmatched by anything I had ever experienced. When I finally worked my way up to a leadership role as a sous chef, being able to see my team operate like a well-oiled machine and execute the plan I had for them made me feel like a coach whose team just won the championship.”
When asked about his favorite dish, Tynan says, “I’m a Texas boy, so my favorite dish will always be some form of steak and potatoes. A good ribeye with my steak butter can pretty much be served over any starch or veggie and be a hit.” Lighthouse Bend has a steak night every Thursday from 4:00 to 8:00 p.m. There is a choice of either a 6 oz. filet or 12 oz. strip steak with a soup or salad and Cajun red potatoes and French green beans. Tynan says his Lighthouse Bread Pudding, which is deep fried and served with bourbon caramel and vanilla ice cream, is a hit with patrons, as well. His signature dish is a smoked peach and bourbon-glazed pork chop served over saffron rice and broccolini.
Zachary Aymond: Pujo Street Café
Chef Zachary Aymond began his culinary journey as a child while cooking with his mother. In college, he had planned to follow in his father’s footsteps and become a high school teacher and coach. But when his stepdad died, Aymond had a career-changing moment and decided instead to pursue his passion for cooking. He got a job at Pujo Street Café as their fry cook in 2014 and worked his way up in the kitchen, becoming head chef in 2019.
Pujo Street Café has been a dining institution in Lake Charles for 30 years. And as chefs do, Aymond has put his own spin on long-standing traditions. Most notably, he and his staff began baking bread from scratch in-house. “During the pandemic in 2020, we started making our own burger buns,” he says. “We also make po-boy buns and brioche for French toast.”
Aymond says his signature dish is the blackened Ribeye Avery. “It’s not on the menu, but it’s so popular, we often offer it as a special. I also love our Hot Honey Chicken Sandwich – the chicken is marinated in buttermilk, fried, drizzled with a hot honey sauce, served on our homemade cheddar and jalapeno bun, and served with house-made pickles.” Aymond is also proud of their Cajun Sticky Ribs. It too is not on the menu, but the regulars know! “They’re fall-off-the-bone tender pork ribs seasoned with Cajun spices and tossed in a house-made pepper jelly barbecue sauce.” Also beloved is his Chicken and Sausage Gumbo. “It’s a very dark roux gumbo that’s rich and robust in flavor and made with local Rabideaux’s sausage.” When asked his personal favorite food, Chef Zachary says, “I love all food and can’t choose a favorite.”
Chef Zachary says he wouldn’t be the chef he is today without his team in the kitchen. Interestingly, speaking of his team, Aymond met his wife, Carol, at Pujo Street Café. “She started working in the kitchen there six months after I was hired. We became roommates, then best friends, and that blossomed into a relationship.” A decade later, and Chef Zachary and Carol still work side-by side at Pujo Street. They married in 2022. Aymond also credits his father, a legendary now-retired Texas high school football coach, with instilling in him a strong work ethic.
On SWLA trends, Aymond says they are always changing, but they’re always looking for fresh, local ingredients. Recently, he has collaborated with micro-greens producer Third Day Farms in Ragley, La. and added their arugula to a beef filet.
Chef Zachary is passionate about feeding people. I love to hear the feedback from satisfied patrons and see the joy my food brings them. There’s nothing greater than providing sustenance to people . . . it’s life.”
David Phillips: Restaurant Calla
In high school, Chef Dave Phillips was a self-professed computer nerd.
He studied computer science in college, and to supplement his income, he waited tables and worked his way up to bartender. As graduation neared, he second-guessed his career choice and opted instead to focus on the restaurant industry. And the first thing Phillips’ manager did was insist he learn how to cook. “I didn’t want to cook,” says Phillips. “I just wanted to run the restaurant. But my manager told me, ‘Dave, you’re a good waiter. Customers like you. But at the end of the day, they’re hungry, and if the food’s not good, they won’t come back.’”
So Phillips learned his way around the kitchen and discovered the work suited him. “I fell in love with the speed and the atmosphere of the kitchen,” he says. “I love playing with knives and fire. But then the manager said I needed a hospitality degree.”
Always seeking his own path, Philipps instead attended a Cordin Bleu culinary school in Austin. “I learned that all the important decisions are made in the kitchen and if the chef’s not on board, the restaurant is at a standstill.” In 2002, he moved to Galveston and started cooking professionally. He cut his teeth at Tilman Fertitta’s hotels, and then landed his first sous chef position at Hotel Galvez. Later, he served as the executive sous chef at The Yacht Club, a private members-only dining place. “That’s where I really dove into the higher, finer side of dining,” says Phillips. “The chef there told me to slow it down, develop your flavors. People are here for an experience.”
In 2008, Phillips and his family moved to Lake Charles and he was hired by Cypress Grill at Gray Plantation. Three years later, he connected with Ben Herrera and began work at DeAngelo’s (now 121 Artisan Bistro). Six months in, and he was serving as head chef and restaurant manager. “Ben was one of the first people I’ve met who understands that a chef can actually run a restaurant.”
Phillips has been head chef and restaurant manager at Calla since 2020. “I’ve been very blessed that Ben has allowed me to run two of his restaurants and I operate them as if they were my own.” Already wildly successful under Calla’s original chef, David Sorrells, Phillips nonetheless made some changes when he took the helm. “We gave it more of a singular identity by reining in the menu to something more focused and rolled forward with upscale New Orleans-style cuisine. “I’m blessed to have a food-thought forward crew. We use daily specials to express ourselves. And we ensure everyone feels welcome, portion sizes meet price points, and the consistency of service and product are top-notch.”
An award-winning chef, Phillips humbly says he’s not in the business for the kudos. “I just love to cook. I want you to come in and not think about me. I want you to take a bite and be transported to a food memory. Some of my strongest memories are of family dinners in central Texas with 30-40 people. The senses of eating – the smells, the tastes, the sights – are such memory-provokers.”
Phillips says his signature dish is the smoked duck. He uses a cold smoking technique that results in a more aromatic dish. “The beauty of the dish is that it is deconstructed and you need to get a little bit of everything in one bite for a wonderful flavor explosion.”
Personal favorite food? “A chef’s favorite food is anything they don’t have to cook,” he jokes. “But seriously, I like it all. I enjoy trying different cuisines and flavors. I was on an Indian kick for a while. I’m still on a spice kick. But yeah, just bring me food.”
Currently trending in SWLA? “Cheesecakes, cookies, and oysters from the new Alternative Oyster Culture Park in Cameron.”
Chef Dave is married with two children and yes, he and his wife share cooking duties. “I love cooking! It’s my love language.”